As Classic As It Gets

You might say Wisconsin Dells was an instant classic 150 years ago when the first visitors made their way by train to this little community for the chance to take a rowboat ride on the Wisconsin River. Word was spreading fast that the sights and sounds of the river and the sandstone bluffs that towered above it were like nothing else in the Midwest. And they were right. The scenery was, and still is, something to behold. Before long, the steamboat tours began, followed by hiking excursions on scenic trails. The first souvenir shops opened their doors in 1890.

During the 1930s and ‘40s, a riverboat trip to Witches Gulch landing and the Stand Rock Indian Ceremonial, both popular stops on the Wisconsin River, was the thing to do. In 1946, Mel Flath brought the first WWII land-to-water vehicles known as DUCKS to Wisconsin Dells and set up a tour company. In the 1950s, crowds were first treated to the famous Tommy Bartlett ski show. Attractions like Storybook Gardens and Fort Dells entertained thousands in the following decades, the precursor to Wisconsin Dells as we know it today. In 1994, Stan Anderson, the owner of the Polynesian Resort Hotel, decided to put a roof over a water attraction at this property, and the first indoor waterpark in the country was christened. And the rest, as they say, is history, with the community transformed into the world’s waterpark mecca.

But let’s jump back for a moment, because many classic Dells’ businesses are going strong, and they’re still a real treat to visit. Pulling together a “classic” itinerary turned out to be as much fun as a rousing round of mini-golf and as tasty as a creamy piece of homemade fudge. What made it even better today was seeing the reaction of the Gen X and Gen Y vacationers who were experiencing the attractions for the first time. For the baby boomers and beyond, it was a wonderful trip down memory lane.

Cruise the River
Not to be confused with the man-made lazy rivers at many of the area waterparks, the real deal is the Wisconsin River. To see the Upper Dells, hop aboard a double-decker riverboat at the Dells Boat Tours dock, then sit back and enjoy the travelogue provided by the guide. Be ready to hop off at Witches Gulch and snake your way through cool narrow caverns, and then again at Stand Rock where you’re treated to the sight of a trained dog making the leap from one teetering bluff to another. It was here that famed landscape photographer H.H. Bennett captured his son jumping mid-air, the first stop-action photo ever taken, and that was in 1888. It was funny seeing the teenagers grabbing their cell phones to snap the moment. Same excitement, just different technology.

Shop Around
While fashionistas in New York have been spotted wearing Minnetonka moccasins on the runways, the soft and cozy footwear has been the fashion de rigeur for generations of travelers to Wisconsin Dells. Places like Parson’s Indian Trading Post, Bailey’s Landing and the Winnebago Gift Shop all sport a wide selection of moccasins for mom, dad, teens and even toddlers. So cute! Parson’s, by the way, is one of the world's largest purveyors of Native American gifts, and the staff is most helpful in answering questions on Native American history and culture.

A Movie Under the Big Sky
You can’t help but feel like an oldster when the group of teens and tweens you have in tow tells you they’ve never been to a drive-in theater. Imagine! All the more reason to load them in a car for a night out, literally, at the Big Sky Twin Drive-In Theatre, just minutes east of downtown Dells. Two screens with two first-run movies showing on each (rest up for a late night) makes for a wonderful entertainment value. You tune in your radio -- no more crackly speaker boxes to hook on your window -- sit back, and enjoy the show. The night we went there were kids sporting footed pg’s and boys and girls tossing around a football before the show started. And you just have to visit the concession stand for some hot buttered popcorn, a burger made to order and an ice cold pop.

Cozy Resorts a Great Find
If you’re a frequent visitor to Wisconsin Dells, why not mix it up a little bit? Stay at a waterpark resort one time, and then patronize a classic resort property the next. The Birchcliff Resort, in business since 1917, is tucked back in the woods with log cabins sprinkled throughout the property. It’s charming, quiet after 10 p.m. and the staff is as friendly as you’ll find anywhere. Be sure to saunter out for the evening bonfire and appreciate the conversation and star gazing. Then there’s the Sandrift Resort. We chatted with several families who had staked out their spot for sunning -- one from Chicago and the other from southern Wisconsin. They met at the resort a few years back, became fast friends, and now make sure they schedule their vacation together, often staying a week or more. Their exercise for the afternoon was waving to folks as they passed by, not too demanding. The accommodations are cozy, and the sleeping is good. Other mom-and-pop places to consider include Dell Creek with its pretty gardens, Indian Trail Motel, Fitzgerald’s Motel and Black Hawk Motel. Baker’s Sunset Bay Resort is also a terrific spot for a family getaway or an extended family reunion.

What really stood out about this classic getaway was this: Taking more than a few days off in a row is a good thing. Even teenagers can find joy in simple pleasures, like a game of ping pong or making s’mores at the bonfire. No matter how many times you see it, the Wisconsin Dells scenery will take your breath away. And a good night’s sleep is a thing of beauty. How’s that for classic vacation advice?

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